27 weeks – 25th of December
The first questions people ask me as soon as they see me approaching the beach with my board are “๐ฝ๐ช๐ฉ ๐ฎ๐ค๐ช ๐จ๐ฉ๐๐ก๐ก ๐๐๐ซ๐ ๐ฉ๐๐ ๐ง๐๐๐๐ฉ ๐ฉ๐ค ๐จ๐ช๐ง๐? ๐๐จ๐ฃ’๐ฉ ๐๐ฉ ๐๐๐ฃ๐๐๐ง๐ค๐ช๐จ ๐๐ค๐ง ๐ฉ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ฎ?”
And the first answer that comes to mind is “๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐๐ก ๐๐๐ฅ๐๐๐ก๐ ๐๐ฃ๐ ๐๐ฉ ๐ข๐๐ ๐๐จ ๐ข๐ ๐๐๐๐ก ๐๐ค๐ค๐, ๐๐๐๐ฎ ๐ฌ๐๐ก๐ก ๐ค๐ฃ๐ก๐ฎ ๐๐ ๐๐๐ฅ๐ฅ๐๐๐ง”
And yes, at almost 7 months, it’s not always easy to get into a wetsuit, I need suitable conditions in order to be able to paddle on my knees, and above all, I have to get away from all the idiots who do not respect the priorities in order to avoid any accidents …
But the feeling of being on my board, follow the curve of the wave, and feel the wind in my hair is one of the best sensations I have ever had and I’m not ready yet to stop it. And even if I have to adapt to my changing body, even if my performances are far away from what I use to do…
This moment of communion with mother nature, this moment of suspense between sky and sea brings me the most beautiful energy I can imagine …
๐๐ช๐ฌ๐ฆ ๐ข ๐ฅ๐ณ๐ข๐จ๐ฐ๐ฏ๐ง๐ญ๐บ, ๐ ๐ง๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ญ ๐ง๐ถ๐ญ๐ญ ๐ฐ๐ง ๐ฑ๐ฐ๐ด๐ช๐ต๐ช๐ท๐ฆ ๐ง๐ฐ๐ณ๐ค๐ฆ, ๐ข๐ต ๐ฑ๐ฆ๐ข๐ค๐ฆ ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ช๐ฏ ๐ฉ๐ข๐ณ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐ฏ๐บ ๐ธ๐ช๐ต๐ฉ ๐ฎ๐บ๐ด๐ฆ๐ญ๐ง ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ฎ๐บ ๐ง๐ถ๐ต๐ถ๐ณ๐ฆ ๐ฃ๐ข๐ฃ๐บ.
So yes one day I will have to put my surfboard away for a few months, but as long as I feel confident to go surfing, as long as I have fun doing it, I know that mini-me is having as much fun as me!
๐น๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐, ๐๐ ๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐, ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ .