โœง The pleasure of sliding on water โœง

27 weeks – 25th of December

The first questions people ask me as soon as they see me approaching the beach with my board are “๐˜ฝ๐™ช๐™ฉ ๐™ฎ๐™ค๐™ช ๐™จ๐™ฉ๐™ž๐™ก๐™ก ๐™๐™–๐™ซ๐™š ๐™ฉ๐™๐™š ๐™ง๐™ž๐™œ๐™๐™ฉ ๐™ฉ๐™ค ๐™จ๐™ช๐™ง๐™›? ๐™„๐™จ๐™ฃ’๐™ฉ ๐™ž๐™ฉ ๐™™๐™–๐™ฃ๐™œ๐™š๐™ง๐™ค๐™ช๐™จ ๐™›๐™ค๐™ง ๐™ฉ๐™๐™š ๐™—๐™–๐™—๐™ฎ?”

And the first answer that comes to mind is “๐™„๐™› ๐™„ ๐™›๐™š๐™š๐™ก ๐™˜๐™–๐™ฅ๐™–๐™—๐™ก๐™š ๐™–๐™ฃ๐™™ ๐™ž๐™ฉ ๐™ข๐™–๐™ ๐™š๐™จ ๐™ข๐™š ๐™›๐™š๐™š๐™ก ๐™œ๐™ค๐™ค๐™™, ๐™—๐™–๐™—๐™ฎ ๐™ฌ๐™ž๐™ก๐™ก ๐™ค๐™ฃ๐™ก๐™ฎ ๐™—๐™š ๐™๐™–๐™ฅ๐™ฅ๐™ž๐™š๐™ง”

And yes, at almost 7 months, it’s not always easy to get into a wetsuit, I need suitable conditions in order to be able to paddle on my knees, and above all, I have to get away from all the idiots who do not respect the priorities in order to avoid any accidents …

But the feeling of being on my board, follow the curve of the wave, and feel the wind in my hair is one of the best sensations I have ever had and I’m not ready yet to stop it. And even if I have to adapt to my changing body, even if my performances are far away from what I use to do…

This moment of communion with mother nature, this moment of suspense between sky and sea brings me the most beautiful energy I can imagine …

๐˜“๐˜ช๐˜ฌ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ข ๐˜ฅ๐˜ณ๐˜ข๐˜จ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฏ๐˜ง๐˜ญ๐˜บ, ๐˜ ๐˜ง๐˜ฆ๐˜ฆ๐˜ญ ๐˜ง๐˜ถ๐˜ญ๐˜ญ ๐˜ฐ๐˜ง ๐˜ฑ๐˜ฐ๐˜ด๐˜ช๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ท๐˜ฆ ๐˜ง๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ๐˜ค๐˜ฆ, ๐˜ข๐˜ต ๐˜ฑ๐˜ฆ๐˜ข๐˜ค๐˜ฆ ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ฅ ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ ๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ๐˜ฎ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฏ๐˜บ ๐˜ธ๐˜ช๐˜ต๐˜ฉ ๐˜ฎ๐˜บ๐˜ด๐˜ฆ๐˜ญ๐˜ง ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ฅ ๐˜ฎ๐˜บ ๐˜ง๐˜ถ๐˜ต๐˜ถ๐˜ณ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ฃ๐˜ข๐˜ฃ๐˜บ.

So yes one day I will have to put my surfboard away for a few months, but as long as I feel confident to go surfing, as long as I have fun doing it, I know that mini-me is having as much fun as me!

๐‘น๐’†๐’Ž๐’†๐’Ž๐’ƒ๐’†๐’“ ๐’•๐’‰๐’‚๐’• ๐’‘๐’“๐’†๐’ˆ๐’๐’‚๐’๐’„๐’š ๐’Š๐’” ๐’๐’๐’• ๐’‚๐’ ๐’Š๐’๐’๐’๐’†๐’”๐’”, ๐’Š๐’• ๐’Š๐’” ๐’‚ ๐’Ž๐’Š๐’“๐’‚๐’„๐’๐’†, ๐’‚๐’๐’… ๐’•๐’‰๐’† ๐’Ž๐’๐’”๐’• ๐’Š๐’Ž๐’‘๐’๐’“๐’•๐’‚๐’๐’• ๐’•๐’‰๐’Š๐’๐’ˆ ๐’Š๐’” ๐’•๐’‰๐’‚๐’• ๐’•๐’‰๐’† ๐’Ž๐’๐’•๐’‰๐’†๐’“ ๐’Š๐’” ๐’‚๐’˜๐’‚๐’“๐’† ๐’๐’‡ ๐’‰๐’†๐’“ ๐’๐’˜๐’ ๐’๐’†๐’†๐’…๐’” ๐’‚๐’๐’… ๐’“๐’†๐’”๐’‘๐’†๐’„๐’•๐’” ๐’‰๐’†๐’“ ๐’๐’Š๐’Ž๐’Š๐’•๐’” ๐’˜๐’Š๐’•๐’‰ ๐’‚ ๐’๐’๐’• ๐’๐’‡ ๐’๐’๐’—๐’† ๐’‚๐’๐’… ๐’ˆ๐’†๐’๐’•๐’๐’†๐’๐’†๐’”๐’” ๐’˜๐’Š๐’•๐’‰๐’๐’–๐’• ๐’‘๐’–๐’•๐’•๐’Š๐’๐’ˆ ๐’‰๐’Š๐’” ๐’‘๐’†๐’“๐’”๐’๐’ ๐’‚๐’๐’… ๐’‰๐’Š๐’” ๐’…๐’†๐’”๐’Š๐’“๐’†๐’” ๐’๐’ ๐’‰๐’๐’๐’….