✧ The pleasure of sliding on water ✧

27 weeks – 25th of December

The first questions people ask me as soon as they see me approaching the beach with my board are “𝘽𝙪𝙩 𝙮𝙤𝙪 𝙨𝙩𝙞𝙡𝙡 𝙝𝙖𝙫𝙚 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙧𝙞𝙜𝙝𝙩 𝙩𝙤 𝙨𝙪𝙧𝙛? 𝙄𝙨𝙣’𝙩 𝙞𝙩 𝙙𝙖𝙣𝙜𝙚𝙧𝙤𝙪𝙨 𝙛𝙤𝙧 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙗𝙖𝙗𝙮?”

And the first answer that comes to mind is “𝙄𝙛 𝙄 𝙛𝙚𝙚𝙡 𝙘𝙖𝙥𝙖𝙗𝙡𝙚 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙞𝙩 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙚𝙨 𝙢𝙚 𝙛𝙚𝙚𝙡 𝙜𝙤𝙤𝙙, 𝙗𝙖𝙗𝙮 𝙬𝙞𝙡𝙡 𝙤𝙣𝙡𝙮 𝙗𝙚 𝙝𝙖𝙥𝙥𝙞𝙚𝙧”

And yes, at almost 7 months, it’s not always easy to get into a wetsuit, I need suitable conditions in order to be able to paddle on my knees, and above all, I have to get away from all the idiots who do not respect the priorities in order to avoid any accidents …

But the feeling of being on my board, follow the curve of the wave, and feel the wind in my hair is one of the best sensations I have ever had and I’m not ready yet to stop it. And even if I have to adapt to my changing body, even if my performances are far away from what I use to do…

This moment of communion with mother nature, this moment of suspense between sky and sea brings me the most beautiful energy I can imagine …

𝘓𝘪𝘬𝘦 𝘢 𝘥𝘳𝘢𝘨𝘰𝘯𝘧𝘭𝘺, 𝘐 𝘧𝘦𝘦𝘭 𝘧𝘶𝘭𝘭 𝘰𝘧 𝘱𝘰𝘴𝘪𝘵𝘪𝘷𝘦 𝘧𝘰𝘳𝘤𝘦, 𝘢𝘵 𝘱𝘦𝘢𝘤𝘦 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘪𝘯 𝘩𝘢𝘳𝘮𝘰𝘯𝘺 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩 𝘮𝘺𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘧 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘮𝘺 𝘧𝘶𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦 𝘣𝘢𝘣𝘺.

So yes one day I will have to put my surfboard away for a few months, but as long as I feel confident to go surfing, as long as I have fun doing it, I know that mini-me is having as much fun as me!

𝑹𝒆𝒎𝒆𝒎𝒃𝒆𝒓 𝒕𝒉𝒂𝒕 𝒑𝒓𝒆𝒈𝒏𝒂𝒏𝒄𝒚 𝒊𝒔 𝒏𝒐𝒕 𝒂𝒏 𝒊𝒍𝒍𝒏𝒆𝒔𝒔, 𝒊𝒕 𝒊𝒔 𝒂 𝒎𝒊𝒓𝒂𝒄𝒍𝒆, 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝒎𝒐𝒔𝒕 𝒊𝒎𝒑𝒐𝒓𝒕𝒂𝒏𝒕 𝒕𝒉𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒊𝒔 𝒕𝒉𝒂𝒕 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝒎𝒐𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒓 𝒊𝒔 𝒂𝒘𝒂𝒓𝒆 𝒐𝒇 𝒉𝒆𝒓 𝒐𝒘𝒏 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒔 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝒓𝒆𝒔𝒑𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒔 𝒉𝒆𝒓 𝒍𝒊𝒎𝒊𝒕𝒔 𝒘𝒊𝒕𝒉 𝒂 𝒍𝒐𝒕 𝒐𝒇 𝒍𝒐𝒗𝒆 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝒈𝒆𝒏𝒕𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒆𝒔𝒔 𝒘𝒊𝒕𝒉𝒐𝒖𝒕 𝒑𝒖𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒉𝒊𝒔 𝒑𝒆𝒓𝒔𝒐𝒏 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝒉𝒊𝒔 𝒅𝒆𝒔𝒊𝒓𝒆𝒔 𝒐𝒏 𝒉𝒐𝒍𝒅.

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